November 16, 2005
I Love the Eighties: East Coast Grill

Bostonist will readily admit that we’re a sucker for a throwback. Better yet when the throwback is coupled with a sweet deal. All this week the East Coast Grill in Inman Square is celebrating their 20th anniversary, or Birthday Party, as they like to call it. Bostonist has been contemplating the East Coast Grill as destination dining for a while. We’ve heard such good things generally coupled with a mention about the prices. Really, anyone know of a place with “and Raw Bar” in the name that doesn’t also have a couple of $s following it?
Reservations were made to lock in our seats. This week we certainly recommend them, though a couple was seated without after us. We sat down to take a gander at the $20 three course prix fixe menu offered as part of the celebration. They warned us ahead of time:
20 years ago grilled pork chops and pineapple salsa was on the culinary vanguard. This week the grill will open the time capsule and return to the original menus and their prices circa 1985!
Bostonist chose the Shrimp and Ham Puppies for the appetizer course and sampled from the East Coast Texas Chili served across the table. Three hushpuppies were delightfully heavy and light at the same time, served with a spiced mayo and honey sprinkled with crushed red pepper. Very different from the bastard child Jiffy cornbread with Bacon that shows up in our diet from time to time. Bostonist had to gobble one of the puppies even before we grabbed the camera (hence only two in the picture). We regretted our decision somewhat for not choosing chili. It didn’t resemble what we call chili. A beef stew with chili flavorings perhaps, big chunks of tender beef, a little spicy, and damn good.
Blackened Boston Red Fish (we’re pretty sure was snapper) came on a bed of pink beans and corn relish. Shoestring oninon rings filled the remainder of the plate. The fish was cooked tender and juicy, but blackened enough that our picture didn’t come out as well as we’d hoped. The whole plate was a bit salty. Across the table we tore off a bit of the BBQ split chicken, collard greens, and mashed potatoes. Owner and top chef, Chris Schlesinger is known for his side dishes and didn’t disappoint-the roasted garlic mashed potatoes were served with a whole head of roasted garlic. Yep, a whole head. Bostonist could eat at least two heads of roasted garlic whenever it’s put in front of us.

Dinner concluded with the sweet. Mango Apple Crisp and Chocolate Pudding Cake. After filling up on two courses it’s not often we’d even reach for desert, but when it’s included Bostonist is up for the challenge. The Mango-Apple Crisp lacked, well, mango. The mango sauce drizzled on top and overripe mango in the crisp were both masked by the tart apple and blend of cinnamon and spices mixed in. Apparently the Chocolate Pudding Cake was delish; before we finished the dollop of whipped cream on our desert our dining partner had cleaned the plate of any remaining cake. Everything, that is, except for the mint leaf garnish and we didn’t eat that.
Though it’s hard for East Coast to undergo a true throwback transformation as they renovated and annexed adjoining storefronts back in the mid-nineties the menu was a good start. We Are the World was playing as we walked in and the music continued with a stream of Jacko, Lauper, and was that really Tiffany we heard? Chris Schlesinger was on hand and checked in on our table twice during the night. Service was speedy and clean, except for the case of the missing margarita. It was later found. Attentive service is great but with four people (drink runners, food runners, wait staff, and busers) it sometimes is a little hectic. We’re not down to rate East Coast for some hats with sticking power but we’ll give Schlesinger a 3.5 out of 5 for the Throwback Menu served all week this week, we'll even bump that up to a 4 seeing as we got the circa '85 pricing. $20 for three courses that left Bostonist very full, budget friendly fine dining.



They also have the hot as hell night if I am right with the pasta from hell which is like insanely spicy.