Eating Out: Brunch at OM

Although Bostonist generally gravitates to low-cost eateries, when a local newbie makes it into Conde Nast Traveler, we sit up and take notice. We'll let you in on a little secret – high priced eateries usually offer more affordable brunches. It's a great way to sample the atmosphere and nosh without taking in the full bill of dinner. It wasn’t long before we found ourselves in the darkened bar of OM Restaurant and Lounge, eager to see what all the fuss was about.

Chef Rachel Klein’s menu runs the gamut from eggs to French toast and back again, all with the signature twist you’d expect from a woman whose culinary skill earned Providence's Lot 401 a nod for “Best New Restaurant 2004” from Esquire. OM looks to follow Klein's success and make its mark as well, sparse modern edges juxtaposed with ornate, traditional mandala paintings. However, as we sat and munched the mini-scones offered as an appetizer, we pondered what one had to do with the other. It seems an odd paring; the gentle culture of Tibet and the stylized panache of a Nouveau-American bistro…Buddha and Dionysus under one roof. Enough philosophy. We’re talking food here. Bostonist scanned the menu for a wallet-friendly dish, settling on the Croque Monsieur ($12), while FOB (friend of Bostonist) went for the Fez Scramble ($16).

The wait for our food was a longer than we would have liked (and made longer by the waiter’s outright refusal to refill our coffee) but we amused ourselves by people-watching through the enormous picture windows overlooking Harvard Square. The delay also gave Bostonist time to note OM’s inexplicable imperfections, such as the crust clinging to our water glass and some greasy splooge on the drink list. When brunch finally arrived, it was exquisitely prepared and presented. The lamb sausage in the Fez was a touch gamey and the mint sauce an odd taste for the first meal of the day, but when you order lamb sausage with mint sauce, well, you get what you ask for. The Croque Monsieur, grilled to perfection on delicate brioche, was roundly agreed to be the better of the two dishes, albeit the less expensive, with the French mustard providing the ideal finish for this glorified grilled cheese.

Although the food was quite good and the mini-scones a great inroad to our heart, our service was fairly poor and we really hate dirty glasses and spotty flatware. We are tempted to return, however, to sample a few rounds of those aromatherapy martinis. Overall, Bostonist rates this eatery with a three-out of five hats.

OM Restaurant and Lounge is located at 92 Winthop St. in Harvard Square - a stumble from Grendel's

Post contributed by Erin Anguish