Eating Out: Daedalus

Though Daedalus, in Greek mythology, was the craftsman who fashioned Icarus’ wings, the name here seems to be an oblique reference to a James Joyce character of the same name. The split-level restaurant has three distinct areas for eating and drinking: the first-floor bar features large windows that open to the air, weather permitting, which makes a relaxing atmosphere for a casual glass of wine. The downstairs dining room, while small, is cozily decorated with a single fresh rose at every table. Venturing upstairs, the diner finds yet another bar and seating area as well as a view of the sky – Daedalus was built inside an old greenhouse, and the ambiance is fantastic.

Upon sitting (downstairs), we were presented with long dish of warmed pita with roasted red pepper hummus, and drinks arrived shortly thereafter. The mojito was cool and refreshing in a tall pint glass, and although their bar didn’t have pomegranate vodka the perfectly sweet and biting pomegranate martini brought no complaints from the table. Both drinks were expertly mixed and dangerously delicious. For an appetizer the bruschetta ($6.95) offered a wonderful mélange of roasted red peppers, pesto, and melted cheese served atop a perfectly crusty baguette. The creation was drizzled with olive oil and a balsamic reduction, served over a bed of mixed greens that absorbed the flavors of the dish. After the splendor of the appetizer, we were primed for a meal of similar substance.

Sadly, disappointment was served with the entrée. The pork loin ($17.95) was well-presented, with two good-sized cutlets resting atop a hearty pile of garlic smashed potatoes, garnished with steamed broccoli and finished with a delicious reduction sauce. A cut into the center of the meat revealed a treasure of salty proscuitto and cheese, which was complemented nicely by the chef’s choice of side dish and topping. Overall, there was a bit too much pepper – otherwise it was a well-executed piece of culinary craftsmanship. The second entrée, the evening's special of seafood and steak-tip kabobs ($17.95) was, well, less spectacular. If you are going to charge eighteen bucks for meat on skewers there should either be a lot of meat or a lot of froth to camouflage the fact that there isn’t actually very much meat at all. With these Kabobs, there was neither. What arrived on the table was precisely two shrimp, two scallops, and three small-ish pieces of steak tip, all brushed with barbecue sauce and laid crosswise on a flan-shaped pile of basil-tinged mashed potatoes. Five anemic-looking carrots rested next to the green starch, and the overall effect was less than appealing. Although the kabobs were delicious and the sauce inspired, basil and potato were not a perfect match and do not go well with BBQ.

Although excellent meals are often par at Daedalus, their offerings are still hit-or-miss. Service was good, drinks were fantastic, and the general ambiance ushered in the exact blend of relaxation and swank that one craves on a rainy evening. Taking the good and the bad, for this visit Daedalus gets three out of five hats.