Eating Out: The Blue Room

A sub-level grotto hidden in the 1 Kendall Square complex, The Blue Room offers sweet relief from the neighborhood’s austere biotech ambiance. Upon arriving, diners are greeted and led through the dimly lit interior to a table that is, invariably, set with water and wine glasses, encouraging thoughts of an unoaked chardonnay or a ripe malbec. However, even the most die-hard oneophile would find it difficult to resist the specialty cocktails served up by resident bartenders. The blood-orange cosmopolitan ($10) is a surefire winner, and their classic martini can’t be beat. But if you still prefer wine to liquor, the list is both extensive and exhaustive. In addition to wines by the glass and bottle, the Blue Room also offers half bottles and “big bottles” (1.5 L) to suit every taste (and wallet). One standout was a 2001 brut rose sparkler, part of their “think pink, drink pink” breast health awareness campaign.

As an appetizer, the wood-grilled asparagus ($8) was a delicious treat. A single perfectly poached egg and two crisp pancetta bites provided wonderful texture balance for the vegetable, with the cider vinaigrette rounding the dish with a sweet / sour finish. Luckily fresh, crusty bread was provided to mop up the remains. Dinner selections are limited but divine, complete with suggested wine pairings, and one gets the distinct feeling that any entrée would emerge from the kitchen a culinary masterpiece. However, the presentation of their seafood often includes fins, heads or eyes. Squeamish diners should be wary! The halibut ($24) is not such a dish. A perfectly square filet of whitefish coated with superfine wheat, it rests in a pool of flavorful risotto topped off with a mélange of balsamic-glazed raisins and lemon zest. Although the menu lists capers as a main ingredient, the flavor is very mild and works well with the bitter and sweet flavor accents. Acadian redfish ($23) was met with mixed reviews, but the duck breast and chestnuts ($23) seemed to fair much better. Desserts are the only place where the restaurant falters – the warm gingerbread cake ($6) was dry and hard, pairing poorly with the rhubarb compote, while the meyer lemon tart ($7) tasted strongly of kumquat or basil.

All in all, dining at the Blue Room is a relaxing, low-key place to get a top-flight meal. The pacing is slow and relaxed, the service is excellent, and the food divine. But if you have a hankering for the halibut or the redfish, you’ll have to get there soon – the Blue Room changes its menu with the seasons, and with summer already here, they’re about ready for a revamp. Four out of five hats for this fine dine.

The Blue Room, One Kendall Square, Cambridge, MA