Creamed onions are a Thanksgiving favorite at Bostonist’s house (except for the year we accidentally bought cocktail onions instead of boiled onions—bygones). So when we saw a recipe for gratinéed mustard creamed onions in this month’s Gourmet, we thought we’d do a side-by-side comparison of Grandma’s way (below) versus Gourmet (left). In the end, Gourmet’s onions were a bigger hit than our usual onions. The onions were bigger and firmer than the usual bottled onions, and the fresh-grated nutmeg and cream Sherry added more subtle, refined flavor than our grandmother’s bouillion cube method. Then again, the Gourmet recipe took more than three times as long to make, which is a pretty big negative on the busiest day of the year in the kitchen.

We also suspected that a big reason the Gourmet onions were so popular was because of the broiled Parmigiano-Reggiano topping. What we’ll probably do next week is just add the crispy parm topping to our standard recipe. That way, everybody wins.

Creamed onions, our grandmother’s way

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup evaporated milk
3 jars (15 oz. each) whole boiled onions
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, or to taste
1 bouillon cube (we use chicken, but you could certainly use vegetable)
water
salt
pepper

Melt the butter over medium heat in a heavy pot. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until it starts to brown a bit. Whisk in the evaporated milk, the bouillion cube, and the mustard. At this point, you’ll need to add just enough water to loosen up the sauce a bit—anywhere from a quarter cup to half a cup. Salt and pepper to taste. Add the onions and simmer until warmed through.

Photos by Lisa Scanlon