Retroville: Classic Cocktails

There are half a dozen etymologies for the word cocktail that range from the sublime to the ridiculous. While we like the theory that a feather was put into drinks containing alcohol for decoration and as a warning to teetotalers, we believe the one from New Orleans.

In the early part of the 1800s A.A. Peychaud settled in New Orleans and opened an apothecary shop. He had brought with him a recipe for something he called bitters, a mix of herbs credited with having health benefits, and he sold it by the bottle mixed with brandy. Bottles of his patent medicine were too expensive for some, who wanted the mixture by the glass. Peychaud began serving single portions in an eggcup (they’re small, double ended cups that look like a jigger measure), which in French are called coquetier, which according to Famous New Orleans Drinks & How To Mix ‘em, is pronounced “ko-k-tay’” – which became Anglicized to “cocktail” the way cowboys would later identify those hats that had braid on them (“tiene galón") as ‘ten gallon” hats.

Because we like names so much, the recent appalling naming standard of slapping -tini on the end of the principal flavor or ingredient makes us sad. It’s much more fun to order a “Sex On The Beach” than a “Grapefruitini”. Classic cocktails have great names, many have great stories, and – when they’re made right – taste great.

The Martini
There are a lot of ways to make a martini, but none of them involve espresso, pomegranate juice, or a Hershey’s Kiss. Those aren’t martinis, they’re cocktails.

A classic martini has just two ingredients: gin and vermouth, in about a five-to-one ratio (2.5 ounces of gin to half an ounce of vermouth). By the 1940s, the ratio was down to about two parts gin to one part vermouth. The ingredients are mixed over ice, strained into a chilled cocktail glass, and garnished with a twist of lemon peel (no pulp). A good bartender will either rub the peel on the glass just before pouring the cocktail, or will actually twist the peel over the drink. This releases the volatile oils from the skin and adds more complexity to the flavor of the drink. You can also use orange bitters to impart a little citrus flavor.

Contrary to popular belief, a “dry” martini has nothing to do with the amount of vermouth in the cocktail, but the kind of vermouth. Dry vermouth makes a dry martini. A martini with very, very little vermouth in it is called “A glass of gin”.

Some people prefer an olive (rinsed of brine) or a cocktail onion (technically a “Gibson”, possibly named for or by Charles Dana Gibson of Gibson Girl fame).

A ‘dirty martini’ is one in which olive brine has been used in addition to (or sometimes instead of) the olive. Vodka martinis are a relatively new invention, coming into vogue at the same time as trendy vodkas did in the 1990s. They were a natural reaction to someone who wanted the cachet of drinking a martini, but (like Scratch) thinks gin is pretty nasty stuff.

Our favorite place to drink a martini: Eastern Standard, 500 Commonwealth Ave
Boston, MA 02215

The Sidecar
Legend has it that The Duke of Windsor created the “Wallis Blue” based on a Sidecar. He loved her enough to abdicate the throne of England to marry her. He didn’t need to be a good mixologist as well. The Wallis Blue (triple sec, gin, and lime juice) is pretty awful, but the drink that inspired it – when done right – is a sharp citrus drink with clear notes. The key ingredients are Cointreau, cognac, and lime juice, although the exact proportions are left up to the reader. Typically, it’s twice as much cognac as Cointreau plus the juice of one whole lime. Some drinkers prefer lemon juice and we’ve seen them made with equal parts of all the liquids. Whatever you put into it, the drink should be shaken over ice and then served in an ice cold glass. A sidecar is good when it’s cool, but amazing when it’s ice cold. This isn’t a sipping cocktail, and if you’re one of those who lingers over a drink, find something else. If your sidecar gets warm, throw it out and start over again.

Our favorite place to drink a Sidecar: Flash’s Cocktail Lounge, 312 Stuart St., Boston, MA 02116

Champagne Cocktails
Classic cocktails all have one thing in common: they’re potent. What do you do when you want a drink, don’t want to get plowed, and want something a little less confrontational then a hard liquor cocktail? The answer is champagne.

Elegant and upscale, champagne cocktails allow you to order a “girly” drink without compromising your macho image. Queen of the champagne cocktails is the tasty and elusive French 77 (not to be confused with a French 75 which is gin, champagne, and unsweetened lemon juice, and about as foul as it sounds). This is the drink of choice of the oh so sophisticated Miss Mina, of The Boston Babydolls. A simple blend of lemon syrup (or lemon juice and simple syrup), champagne, and elderflower liqueur, a French 77 is heaven in a champagne flute. Some places will substitute Chambord for the elderflower wine, but it’s not even close.

If you like a little purple in your champagne, we suggest the Kir Royale. A festive blend of crème de cassis and champagne, the best ones are garnished with a perfect blackberry. They’re cool and refreshing in the summer, and serve as a great reminder of summer during the winter holidays. Plus, their rich purple color looks great at holiday time.

Our favorite place to drink a French 77: The Last Hurrah at The Parker House, 60 School Street, Boston, MA 02108

Tassel Tossers and Spinners
Boston’s legendary Queen of Burlesque, Sally Keith, developed a signature cocktail, The Tassel Tosser, that was served at The Crawford House in Scollay Square. It consisted of brandy, anisette, and triple sec – three great tastes that don’t go together.

Scollay Square is little more than a memory... and a restaurant in the shadow of the state house. Although not a classic cocktail (yet), Scollay Square Restaurant’s creation commemorating The Queen of Tassels is worth a mention.

A tart concoction of cranberry, vodka, and Cointreau, the exact proportions and secret ingredients are closely guarded. The Tassel Spinner is the drink your mother warned you about. A strong drink with a light flavor, it’s easy to drink two or three of these in a row...and end up on the bar, spinning your tassels.

Our favorite place to lift a glass in memory of burlesque queens gone by: Scollay Square, 21 Beacon St., Boston MA 02108

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.