Misty Kalkofen Comes Down From Mt. Grand Marnier, Invades Your iPhone

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When Misty Kalkofen first came to town to get her master's in theology, she found near-instantaneous employment by taking on the shifts that no one else at Christopher's wanted. Having since worked her way through all the establishments of awesomeness between there and Fort Point, she is one of Boston's most eminent bartenders and president of the local chapter of Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails.

Kalkofen sat down with Bostonist and drinking companion J.D. McLawschoolpants to discuss her recent trip to Vail, Colorado, where she represented Boston at Grand Marnier's annual Mixology Summit. A hundred of North America's finest bartenders spent a weekend on top of a mountain with all the 'gnac-based liqueur they could drink, and Misty has lived to tell the tale.

Misty Kalkofen: I'm not a skier. When I was applying I was like, "I hope it's not a problem that I'm not a skiier. I'm really good at hot tubs and spas—does that work?" They were like, "Skiing is not a prerequisite." Great. Awesome. So I spent a lot of the first day going to some [other participants'] mixology labs, and it's just cool to see what's going on.

My friend Matty, who is going to work at the Varnish in LA, did an amazing variation on a hot buttered rum using ghee.

Bostonist: [silent awe]

Kalkofen: Yeah. It was ridiculous. I mean, Navan, and—

McLawschoolpants: I'm not sure what ghee is.

Bostonist: Ghee is the clarified butter they use in Indian cooking.

Kalkofen: He put garam masala on top. It was ridiculous. I'm like, first of all, boy from LA making hot drink for us in Vail, how cool is that? And it's so delicious. If you have the iPod application: Matt Eggleston. His drink was so delicious.

[Note: The GM Cocktails app is based on the very handy Cocktails+ interface and contains drink recipes by all of this year's Mixology Summit participants, some of them playful variations on classic formulae, some of them wildly experimental. It can be downloaded for free.]

Any opportunity that we have like this, it's—the styles of bartending and what's happening around the country are so varied that when we have opportunities to come together and share some ideas and talk about what's going on, that's really cool.

Bostonist: What were the overall trends with what other people were doing? Are people still turning everything into a foam or setting things on fire or putting massive amounts of bitters? Setting bitters on fire and turning them into a foam?

Kalkofen: Well, I definitely saw matches.

There was a big long table set up so that the folks from AKA Winegeek who were running the labs could come out and grab what they needed from the table, so it was interesting to see the product that was set up along the table: Not a lot of vodka, which, obvious for me, is—woohoo!

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But, to see several different types of mezcal, and tequila... People were doing things that were much more interesting than your regular margarita. But also people bringing in spirits from other [places], Colorado whiskeys, and things like, I don't even know what this is.

But on top of that, food products. Bridget Albert used lemon sorbet in one of her drinks.

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Eggs + scotch = delicious

Bostonist: I noticed that, at least in the iPhone app, that there seemed to be more egg drinks than vodka drinks.

Were there any really messed up garnishes?

Kalkofen: A Peep.

Bostonist: What was the drink?

Kalkofen: I believe it was a shiraz-based Navan drink.

McLawschoolpants: How were you chosen [to attend the summit]? Was there an application? Were you asked? How does that work?

Misty Kalkofen: It's an application process. Anybody can apply; chances improve if you're a working bartender. The application included an essay, but the big thing was four recipes, three including Grand Marnier and one including Navan.

From there, it went through a vetting process. The first tier was the Grand Marnier Team, and after that they sent it to Steve Olson's [company] AKA Wine Geek.

My understanding is that there were over 800 applications this year.

Bostonist: What was the inspiration for [your Grand Marnier cocktail] the Studebaker?

The Studebaker

1/4 oz. Bénédictine
1/2 oz. Grand Marnier
2 oz. Laird's Apple Brandy
1/2 oz. Lillet
1 barspoon molasses

Stir with ice. Strain into your favorite vintage glass.

Kalkofen: Well, I love the whole baked apple vibe. For me, apple and citrus goes together, so I wanted to do apple brandy and Grand Marnier. As far as sweeteners are concerned... I like something that adds a little bit of depth to your cocktail rather than just sweetness. I like molasses. I love the earthiness.

The naming of my cocktails was kind of fun. The deadline was coming up [for submitting the mixology summit cocktails], and I was having a really hard time—I was finishing up at [beloved Central Square establishment] Green Street and starting to work at Drink, so I was working my full shifts at Green Street and, on my nights off, training at Drink, so I was just crazy. Balls to the wall. And they were like, Drinks are due. Drinks are due. Applications are due. And I'm like, inspirationally void.

And so there was one night when I was at Drink and trying to work on my drinks, and Josey [Packard], who works at Drink, her wife Jill [McDonough] came in, who's a poet. She sat down at my bar. I love to try new things out on her because she's extremely honest and she has a really great palate. I made a flip of some sort and put it down in front of her and she said, "It's good, but it's not you. I've had your drinks and they're better than this." That's kind of how I felt about it, too.

So, she comes back in, and she's like, "I've got it."

"What've you got?"

"You need three drinks, right? For Grand Marnier? The Undertaker, the Studebaker, and the Mistress Maker: that's what they should be named."

I normally create the drinks and then I struggle with the name afterward...

McLawschoolpants: I have a list of names.

Kalkofen: That night, that was what I needed! I already had the Studebaker pretty much figured out, so as soon as she said it—it looked like motor oil because of the molasses that was in it. So obviously that's the Studebaker.

And as soon as she said Undertaker and Mistress Maker—for Undertaker, I was like high-proof spirit, bitter, all these things. I ended up with the Fighting Cock bourbon, Grand Marnier, a little bit of grapefruit juice, and Cynar for the bitterness.

And then the Mistress Maker—we have to go the opposite direction. Aphrodisiacs! Ginger, orange obviously from the Grand Marnier, and then chocolate. A little bit of bitters and citrus, and a little bit of sparkling wine.

Bostonist: If an inexperienced person were to happen upon a bottle of Grand Marnier for the first time, what's the first thing they should do with it? What's the first drink you'd tell them to make?

Kalkofen: A margarita.

I mean, obviously, the first thing I would say: taste it. Put it in a glass and taste it. And then I would mix a real awesome margarita. Quality tequila. Fresh lime juice.

Another thing I always encourage people to do with spirits is, if you're not used to mixing drinks but you like to cook, think about what you might do with similar flavors in cooking. What do you like orange with when you're cooking? Consider that a little bit. Obviously you can't do base spirits, but spices, or do you do orange and lemon together?

McLawschoolpants: Chicken. Chicken liqueur.

Kalkofen: Bourbon. Chicken bourbon.


Photographs taken at Drink, where Misty Kalkofen currently brings the thunder/sweatbands. Interview conducted at the Independent, where some amazing chalk inscriptions can be viewed in the restroom.

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Comments (3) [rss]

i want me some chicken bourbon.

There's actually a recipe, from the summit, that involves Grand Marnier infused with duck.

Do you think I could go to Drink and order up the Mistress Maker? That sounds like an amazing beverage.

No chicken liquor for me.

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